The latest buzz around De Beers has given me interest in combing through diamond history. I thank the tireless dedicated work of Jack Ogden and the late Herbert Tillander for their historical diamond knowledge. I also am so grateful for the application of diamond’s enduring representation around love from the books written by Beatriz Chadour-Sampson and the late Diana Scarisbrick.
Jewelry Armor Share is dedicated to offering antique and vintage jewelry tailored for the rare individual. In this post, I want to look at the enduring legacy of diamonds and clarify common misconceptions.
Modern Criticism of De Beers
When we think about diamond demand, we think about the famous marketing campaign that launched in the late 1940s. In recent decades through today, the De Beers Group has faced criticism around marketing practices, monopoly influence, and ethical concerns. While these debates have catalyzed important conversations around transparency and sustainability in the diamond industry, it is important to realize that the popularity of diamonds predates corporate influences. It goes far back. I mean, way far back.
Early Start
Its earliest written start has been in ancient India, where diamonds were reported to be traded as early as the fourth century BC. Diamonds were first served as practical objects, they were offered to deities and thought to have offered protection from illness or misfortune. (Tillander, 2026) During the Roman Empire, people reportedly wore uncut diamonds in rings to show their status. (Ogden, 2018) In the early Renaissance, diamonds served not only as symbols but also fulfilled roles, such as being utilized for inscribing or scripting purposes. (Tillander, 2026)
Diamonds in Marriage and Wedding Rings
A significant amount of ancient diamond history is left shrouded due to secrets kept around the methods of transforming it into a sparkly gemstone. (Ogden, 2018) Its journey first started as polishing. (Tillander, 2026) The point cut was primarily driven by smoothing and polishing the faces of the rough diamond. (Tillander, 2026) Starting around the 14th century was when diamonds were cleaved and then it began, the primitive diamond cuts. (Tillander, 2026)
“To finally bend diamond to the will of man surely overthrew God’s order; it was impudence at best, blasphemy at worst.” (Ogden, 2018)
Once the implementation of diamond cutting became known, it was utilized and coveted in jewelry. A commonly cited early reference to diamonds related to betrothal was a diamond ring that belonged to Mary the Duchess of Burgundy in 1477. (Ogden, 2018) Ogden indicated while there was no exact evidence as an engagement ring, it was likely that it was a ring in preparation for her engagement. (Ogden, 2018) Not bad, Mary. No wonder this is heavily cited, the hogback linear diamond cuts were customized to her first initial (and also shared with her bethrothed). This would have been a tedious technical task, as it would require several octahedral diamond rough pieces to come together. (Tillander, 2026) There’s even some mention that these diamonds were cut earlier than 1477. (Tillander, 2026)
Taken from Jack Ogden's 2018 Diamonds: An early history of the King of Gems Book.
By the 17th century, it was common for women to receive cluster set diamond rings as betrothal gifts. (Scarisbrick, 2007) Although Scarisbrick does not explicitly state that diamond engagement rings were limited to the wealthy, it is likely as jewelry at that time was reserved for the elite. The drive and desire for diamonds didn’t stop there. When the new diamond mines in Brazil were discovered in 1727, it increased opportunities of supply. (Chadour-Sampson, 2019) The diamond demand soared as it became the preferred gemstone to represent love and marriage. (Chadour-Sampson, 2019)
When people often refer to the popularity of colored stone engagement rings, they are likely referring to the 19th century. Two things have happened. The 1820s was when diamonds were scarcer and colored gemstone popularity rose because of increased prices. (Scarisbrick, 2007) Queen Victoria (style icon leader, she led the whole style movement) engagement ring represented her birthstone, an emerald. It didn’t last very long though, as once more diamond mines from South Africa came in in 1867, diamonds as a representation of love continued. (Scarisbrick, 2007)
Why Diamonds are for the Neurodivergent
The most common phrase that I hear amongst my clients are, “diamonds are boring.” And I absolutely agree. The modern brilliant diamond has a predictable sparkle and it is mathematically and technically precise to reflect and disperse light. Technically beautiful is great, but do we want it all the time? I don’t think so.
The mundaness around diamonds really started after the 1950s. Once GIA released their standardization of diamonds (the 4Cs) I think it encouraged the trade to only offer diamonds of a very narrow offering. As to say, other diamonds outside of the perceived scale were inferior. Now that we have lab grown diamonds that really emphasized perfection, I am slowly seeing an increased tolerance to embracing the diamond’s beauty.
If we put the modern brilliant diamond aside for a moment. Diamonds have a resonance for people that are outside of the standard template. Antique diamond cuts and different hues speak directly to the way we see the world. Full of dimension and full of unpredictability. Irregular facet patterns, gentle asymmetries really trap in the light and gives an introspective beauty to the piece. There’s visual honesty in interesting inclusions that really show up real and unedited. There’s sensory comfort when the light return is more of a stroll rather than a bull horn.
Unexpected colors like warm browns, sunny yellows, blush pinks, stormy blues, and mossy greens create a visual language that rewards attention. The fire power in a colored diamond is far more interesting than the typical colorless one, with a base color that has a depth that a colorless diamond cannot offer. In a time period where we have an avalanche of lab grown diamonds that have been created for perfection and predictability, people want to recognize themselves in difference rather than the uniformity. They value rarity that isn’t technical.
I think for many, there’s an instinct to resist whatever everyone else seems to love. And honestly, I fully endorse to not surrender to what’s mass produced or whatever design is currently going viral (so help me, if I see another oval cut 3ct lab I may combust). However, there is a small slice of diamonds that are just right for the neurodivergent. The next time you see a diamond, remember its deeply rooted history of evolution. We are drawn to them because how different eras made them evolve alongside technology and taste. They’ve been chameleons of brilliance, transparency, fire, and glow long before the pristine modern brilliant diamond we know today. And that’s exactly why the right one still feels inevitable when it’s representing you.
References
Tillander, H. (2026). Diamond cuts in historic jewellery 1381-1910. Unicorn Publishing Group.
Ogden, J. (2018). Diamonds: An early history of the King of Gems. Yale University Press.
Scarisbrick, D. (2007). Rings: Jewelry of power, Love and Loyalty. Thames & Hudson.
Chadour-Sampson, A. B. (2019). The Power of Love: Jewels, romance and eternity. Unicorn.