Victorian Twin-Heart Moonstone and Rose-Cut Diamond Brooch

Heart + Bow

Hearts are so familiar today that it's easy to forget just how enduring this motif has been. In jewelry, the 16th and 17th centuries continued to use the heart as a symbol of romantic love, often given as a gift to mark devotion or milestones such as anniversaries (Chadour-Sampson, 2019). By the Victorian era, the heart was especially beloved, fueled by Queen Victoria's deep love for Prince Albert. The motif rippled throughout Victorian jewelry and became one of the era's most resonant symbols of affection. 

The bow motif is equally rich in history. Bow shaped jewelry inspired by textiles was already popular by the late 17th century (Chadour-Sampson, 2019). As jewelry and dress became increasingly intertwined, that movement carried into metalwork. In this piece, the curves are almost fabric like. The lover's knot adds a meaning of affection and enduring love. 

Brooch

The diamonds are examples of early Gothic rose cut diamonds that are classified as chiffre (Tillander, 2026). These types of cuts were thought to have started as early as the 14th century, though versions of them appear occasionally in modern jewelry. The facets create an irregular scintillation as the facets are cut towards the natural shape of the rough diamond (Tillander, 2026). I like to call it an antique star scatter effect and especially adore a few of these have a nice flat table too. I believe this to be dated around the late 1860s, as it was the time frame when Gothic designs were trending. The time frame was also when jewelers really focused on technique and effect (Scarisbrick, 1998).

Photo taken from Chadour-Sampon’s book, page 55. A ring dated between 1620-50 of a heart shaped sapphire with two hands clasped to signal loyalty and love. Sapphire had represented romantic love. The bezel opens into Roman numerals “XX” for a significant number that is only known to the gift giver and the wearer.

References:

Chadour-Sampson, A. B. (2019). The Power of Love: Jewels, romance and eternity. Unicorn.

Scarisbrick, D. (1998). Jewelry design source book. Knickerbocker Press.

Tillander, H. (2026). Diamond cuts in historic jewellery 1381-1910. Unicorn Publishing Group. 

Specification

1.6” in overall length

0.7” in height

14k-15k gold with diamonds mounted in silver

Two moonstones

38 early Gothic rose cuts total estimated carat weight 1.30 (spread 1.32mm-2.31mm)

1860s Victorian

4.7grams

Care/Clean: Clean gently with mild soap and lukewarm water with a soft toothbrush. Pat dry or air dry. 

Condition: Diamonds are very secure in their setting, a few of them have some flea bites and some nicks, though some of that is also related to the nature of how these diamonds were cut.